Micronutrients are the nutrients that are used in smaller quantities by the plant.
– They are calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), magnesium (Mn), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), and boron (B).
Macronutrients are the nutrients that are used in large quantities by the plant.
– They are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K)
Not all water is created equal. When we drink different waters, we experience their distinctive qualities as different flavors. The mineral, carbon dioxide, and oxygen content of water vary substantially, and affects your plants.
Three key measurements of the water composition are its “alkalinity”, its “pH” and its content of “dissolved salts”.
Alkalinity is the ability of the water to buffer acids. When water contains dissolved solids/minerals the pH is not affected as much by the addition of fertilizer. When water is pure and contains no minerals it is called soft water. This water has little or no buffering ability so its pH is very changeable.
pH is a measure of acid-alkalinity balance. A pH between 5.3-6.5 is what plants like best. The pH of tap water may change seasonally. Test it regularly. The pH changes when the water company flushes its system.
Dissolved salts are the mineral content of the water and is usually expressed as parts per million (ppm). This can be measured using electrical conductivity (EC) meters. A reading of 125-150 ppm for your water is a good starting point because it represents some buffering ability , but not to much that large amounts of minerals have to be added to adjust pH.
NOTE – When you irrigate the plants make sure that you don’t shock the roots with water that is either too cold or too warm. Make sure that the water is in the temperature range of 65-75 F or 18-24 C.
Chlorine and/or chloramine is added to municipal water systems to kill infectious agents, but when the water is used for irrigation, the chlorine/chloramine kills some of the beneficial micro-organisms in the “rhizosphere”, the area surrounding the roots. To protect the micro-life in the soil, remove the chlorine/chloramine from the water.
In the past water was treated with a chlorine compound that had a characteristic odor and taste. This chlorine evaporates when the water sits for a day or two. Now most water systems use “chloramine”, which does not evaporate. The chloramine has to be removed.
Aquarium hobbyist face the same problem because the chlorine and/or chloramine also affects the fish. They use an additive (available at pet supply stores) that removes not just the chlorine and chloramine but the ammonia which is produced by the chemical reaction. Chloramine can also be removed from water by adding 1 gram of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) to 75 gallons of water. Adding the ascorbic acid to the water is safe for both the plants and you.
Compact fluorescent lights are often the most convenient lamps to use in small gardens. Unlike fluorescent tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs have ballasts built into the bulb assembly so they can screw into a standard incandescent socket.
The light emitted from a CFL lamp is indirect. Since any light that doesn’t reach the plants is wasted, use reflectors to get the lights to the garden. Use fixtures with bowl-like reflectors to send the light in the right direction.
To maintain a fast growing garden, a minimum of 30 watts of fluorescent light per square foot is required during vegetative growth. More light, 40-60 watts per square foot will produce even higher quality growth. Compact fluorescent bulbs come in the following wattage – 13w, 26w, 55w, 125w, and 200w. The 125w and 200w bulbs require a mogul socket to screw into, but the 13w, 26w, and 55w bulbs all fit standard light sockets.
Compact fluorescent bulbs emit the most light when they are positioned with the base up. They emit less light when positioned base down and are least efficient when placed horizontally.
Metal halide lamps are the type of lamps used to illuminate outdoor sports events because they emit a white light. Metal halide bulbs come in different spectrums – 2,100K, 3,200K, 6,400K, 7,200K, and 10,000K.
A metal halide bulb with a 6,400K, 7,200K or 10,000K rating is ideal for vegetative growth (18 hrs.) and for the first 2 weeks of flowering (12 hrs.). Using this bulb in early flowering will decrease stretching of the plant during the transition period from veg to bloom.
Using a 6400K, 7200K, or 10,000K bulb in the last 2 weeks of flowering will supply critical “UVB” light to the garden. Even plants grown under High Pressure Sodium lamps will have increased potency if the lamps are replaced with metal halide bulbs in the last 2 weeks of flowering.
Metal halide bulbs that are 2,100K and 3,200K are often the only bulb used during the whole life of the plant- vegetative and flowering stages. These bulbs have a mixture of blue, green, yellow, red, and orange spectrums which are sufficient for all phases of growth.
Metal halide bulbs come in 250w, 400w and 1000w sizes. These bulbs require a ballast to ignite them.
NOTE – It is unsafe to use a metal halide with a broken outer bulb. Not only does it emit large amounts of harmful UVB rays, it also releases UVC light, which is deadly to most life forms. DO NOT use a broken metal halide lamp.
High pressure sodium lamps emit an orange or amber looking light. Their spectrum is heavily concentrated in the yellow, orange, and red spectrums with only minimal amounts of blue spectrum. These type of lamps are commonly used in street lights.
High pressure sodium lamps are usually used for flowering because they supply more orange and red light than metal halide lamps. Using lamps with increased orange and red spectrum seems to promote more flower production. Some newer HPS lamps emit enhanced levels of blue light, which encourages stout short stems and branches. Manufacturers of these lamps claim that the bulb can be used in both the vegetative and flowering stages.
High pressure sodium bulbs are available in – 150w, 250w, 400w, 430w, 600w, 750w, and 1000w sizes. The bulb wattage must match the ballast wattage.
“DON’T” use a smaller wattage bulb in a larger wattage ballast, unless the ballast has adjustable wattages, and you adjust the ballast to the bulb wattage.
Every metal halide and high pressure sodium lamp has an electrical system that requires conversion to higher voltage than is delivered through the electrical grid. The ballast converts house current to the appropriate voltage.
Ballasts are connected to a reflector/bulb by a length of 14 gauge electrical cord. This allows the ballast to be stored outside the garden area. The convenience of this is that the heavy ballasts are not hanging from the ceiling, only the much lighter reflector and bulb.
Ballasts come in either magnetic or digital format.
Magnetic ballasts use 20% more electricity than the bulb is rated to convert the electricity to an appropriate form. A digital ballast uses about 10% more electricity that the bulb is rated to convert the electricity to an appropriate form.
Magnetic ballasts contain an iron magnetic core so they are heavy – (1000w HPS weighs between 35-44 lbs.) but a digital ballast weighs about 8-12 lbs. for the same size.
Magnetic ballasts hum and emit a lot of heat, whereas a digital ballast is quiet and generally run cooler.
Magnetic ballasts are better suited when using a relay – (ping-pong 2 separate rooms 12hrs/12hrs with 1 ballast) than are digital ballasts.
Digital ballasts regulate currency more precisely than do magnetic ballasts. The bulb receives a more even electrical flow so it is stressed less. It lasts longer, emits a brighter light, and it doesn’t flicker.
Digital ballast are more expensive that magnetic ballasts, but they do save electricity, and generally produce more light, resulting in more flowers.
The latest addition to indoor lighting options is lamps made from Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs). LEDs create little heat and are only about 3″-4″ deep, so they work well in closets, or spaces where height is an issue. LEDs are also very efficient, using less hydro than Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium and even Fluorescents.
In an LED lighting system each diode emits light in a narrow spectrum. The spectrum is determined by the minerals used to make them. This allows LED’s to be designed to provide the plants with exactly the spectrum that they need for maximum growth. By tailoring the diode spectrums to the plants requirement, LED’s produce more PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) than HID lamps.
PAR – The light that plants use is known as Photosynthetically Active Radiation. Humans see light best in the yellow-green wavelengths around 550 nm. Plants make most use of light in the red and blue spectrums in the range of 400-700 nm.
HPS lamps deliver more total light per watt of input, but LEDs are twice as efficient in PAR light per watt. LED fixtures are more expensive than HID lights, but they will save money in the long run.
Hydroponics is the method of gardening in which plants are supplied with nutrients through the water solution. Hydroponic systems vary in their complexity and the amount of care that they require.
Gardeners have a choice of systems to accomplish this. Deep Water Culture (DWC), Drip Systems, Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain), Nutrient Flow Technique (NFT), Reservoir and Wick Systems are all considered hydroponic gardening.
Systems fall into one of two categories : Passive Systems or Active Systems.
Passive Hydroponic Systems use capillary action to draw water through the planting medium. As water is used it creates “tension” which pulls water molecules up. It supplies plants with as much water as they need. Passive systems include reservoir systems, wick systems, and capillary mat systems.
Active Hydroponic Systems use pumps to move fresh water/nutrient solution to the plants so that the environment is refreshed by a solution on a timed schedule. Active hydroponic systems include deep water culture (DWC), drip systems, ebb and flow systems and aeroponic systems.
LEC stands for Light Emitting Ceramic, a huge leap forward in Metal Halide technology. The most important change is the ceramic tube which allows the bulb to burn at a higher temperature, creating light that is much closer to natural sunlight. Growers around the world are stunned at the effectiveness of these new features.
Sun System LEC 315 utilizes cutting edge Light Emitting Ceramic technology, delivering an amazing spectrum unmatched by other types of H.I.D. lighting. A highly efficient agriculturally engineered Phillips CDM-T Elite 315/U/O Agro Lamp comes with the unit. Greatly improved full colour light spectrum out of next generation ceramic lamps.
Built into the fixture is a high-quality Phillips brand 50/60 Hz low frequency, square wave, highly efficient electronic ballast rated for 50,000 hour life! The LEC 315 driver incorporates built in thermal protection. Very reliable and durable fixture made with the finest quality materials and components available.
1- State-of-the-art Light Emitting Ceramic (LEC) delivers an amazing, full spectrum unmatched by other types of H.I.D. lighting.
2- Highly efficient agriculturally engineered Philips CDM-T Elite 315 Watt Agro Lamp (included)
3- Higher amounts of beneficial UV and far red spectrums increase the lamps growth to plants.
4- Very high 1.95 PPF per second light source.
5- High-quality Philips brand 50/60 Hz low frequency, square wave, highly efficient electronic ballast built into the fixture.
6- Excellent 90% lumen maintenance at 8,000 hours. (bulb should be replaced after 2 years for maximum growth potential).
7- Compact lighting solution for small growing areas or to supplement high pressure sodium (HPS) lighting.
8- Very reliable and durable fixture made with the finest quality materials and components.
9- Reflective is made with 98% reflective German aluminium and 95% reflective textured corner inserts.
